La Dolce Vita
From the French Riviera to Rome: the Italian art of living
After my travels in France, I continued my journey towards Italy – a country I’d been curious about for some time. The language, the culture, the food, the history and, of course, the landscapes that have inspired artists, travellers and dreamers for generations.
Via the Côte d’Azur, I travelled on towards the Riviera and eventually to Rome.
A route that not only took me past impressive sights, but also introduced me to something the Italians have been renowned for for generations: the art of living.
A flying start in Rome
In Rome, I stayed for four weeks in a Catholic monastery on a hill overlooking the city. In hindsight, that fact alone sounds almost romantic.
In the mornings, I would hop on my bike and cycle down towards the city centre. Past ancient buildings, bustling squares and narrow streets that seemed to tell a new story at every turn. During the day, I attended Italian lessons at a language school near Castel Sant’Angelo.
That began straight away with an interesting adventure.
Before leaving, I’d studied the language on my own, but I had hardly any practical experience of speaking it. As I like a challenge, I’d looked up a few answers here and there during the online test to get into a higher class. From previous experience, I knew that those classes move at a faster pace, which means you learn quicker.
It turned out later that I’d perhaps tried a bit too hard. Whereas at previous institutions I’d had an oral assessment to determine my level, that didn’t happen here.
So on my first day of lessons, I suddenly found myself in a C1 class. Among students who’d been fluent in the language for years. I myself had barely managed to utter a complete sentence.
For a moment, I wondered: am I doing the right thing here?
But then again, I didn’t want to shy away from the challenge.
With some trepidation, I then walked up the stairs towards the classroom…
I held my ground bravely for a week.
Until the coordinator came up to me kindly and suggested that ‘uno livello basso’ – in other words, a level lower – might be a good idea after all.
Another experience under my belt.
Another experience under my belt.
Rome made an impression. Everything seems to exist there at once: old and new, silence and bustle, decay and life. You’re not walking through a city steeped in history, but through history that is still alive.
One morning in the early darkness, at 5:00 am, I went for a run through the city with a guide. Rome was still quiet. The streets were empty, many famous landmarks still in the twilight. This allowed us to watch the city slowly wake up. It offered a beautiful glimpse of Rome in its most tranquil form, before it was once again filled with the hustle and bustle of daily life.
Genoa and the charm of the coast
After Rome, I travelled on to Genoa. It’s a city that may be less well-known than Rome, Florence or Venice, but it really took me by surprise. It’s always a surprise where I end up. That’s what makes it such an interesting adventure. With host families, I never know where I’ll end up. The language school arranges this for me. I receive the address details shortly beforehand and let them know when I’ll arrive. Other than that, I don’t ask for anything and don’t specify any preferences.
This time, I ended up with a host family from aristocratic circles.
High ceilings. Marble floors. Large mirrors.
Enormous chandeliers.
A terrace with a view over the city and the sea in the distance.
Everything you could wish for.
The family themselves, however, had suffered greatly. The atmosphere in the house was heavy.
Fortunately, the atmosphere of the city made an impression. Genoa possesses a certain rugged elegance. Less polished than some other Italian destinations, but full of character precisely because of that.
And then, of course, there is the coast. The colourful villages towards Cinque Terre, built against the rocks and overlooking the sea, form a landscape that is well worth seeing.
For me, that comes closest to La Dolce Vita.
